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SOUTH PADRE ISLAND — When I think of appetizers, I think of small morsels of food to waken my appetite.
However, the plate of fried oysters before me could easily serve as the main course.
It’s a Friday afternoon at Captain’s Cove Oyster Bar and outside the broad windows Padre Boulevard is strangely quiet. I have never seen such emptiness and silence along this usually busy thoroughfare.
But, it has a sort of calming effect on me as the flawless afternoon sun lights up the green of the palm trees. The sky is a pale blue, and the palm fronds move lightly in the casual breeze.
I often say that broad spaces invoke a sense of calm and relaxation, and I feel that relaxation in the large dining area of Captain’s Cove at 5801 Padre Blvd. Small spaces can feel claustrophobic but also more intimate. Large spaces can make one feel somewhat isolated.
Today I feel the calm of the large dining area at Captain’s Cove, and the menu entertains me with its various offerings. I’ve often found that upscale places like Captain’s Cove have small menus but with intriguing and extraordinary listings. I embark, now, on my voyage of discovery through the menu of Captain’s Cove.
Redfish on the half shell? I have never heard of redfish on the half shell. I know of oysters on the half shell and have enjoyed them many times. But redfish on the half shell? I was not aware that redfish have shells and would like to further explore this. Tonight, however, it doesn’t interest me enough to order it, and I continue on my voyage of discovery.
I could order the grilled salmon, the gulf shrimp and grits (interesting combination), the shrimp enchiladas Suiza, or the lobster gnocchi. And, whoa! What have we here. A category labeled handhelds. I have never heard this word used in reference to food, and I have not seen it on a menu.
I suppose any food could be held, such a pizza and hamburgers and awesome blossoms and hotdogs. I do see under this title a flame-grilled wagyu burger, the lobster roll, and crispy fish tacos.
The soups and salads at Captain’s Cove include the seasonal burrata, the strawberry-mango salad and the seafood cioppino. Hmmm. That sounds interesting. Never seen that word before, not even in the spelling bee in sixth grade. The description tantalizes my imagination further with its list of ingredients: seafood broth, mussels, blue crab, shrimp, fish and grilled sourdough.
The definitely deserves further discovery.
I come across oysters Rockefeller and stop for a moment. Recall in my previous review of Mala Copa in Brownsville I wrote a great deal about oysters Rockefeller which was in its menu. I wrote about my history with oysters Rockefeller beginning with my first visit to Saltillo, Mexico, about 25 years ago.
I had never eaten this dish, but I did that night in Saltillo and I liked it very much. So, I had the oysters Rockefeller at Mala Copa and it was delicious. Now I look at the oysters Rockefeller at Captain’s Cove and think that perhaps I should have it here too, and maybe I can embark on a culinary tour of the oysters Rockefeller throughout the Valley and write a lengthy article or even a series of articles.
That idea falls flat after about 30 seconds, and I finally decide on the Kung Pao shrimp. I have never had Kung Pao shrimp. Every time I’ve had anything Kung Pao it was with chicken. I choose a new experience tonight and order the Kung Pao shrimp.
The dish is a very good dish with sweet noodles and delicious shrimp with a nice little spicy kick to it. I have to work slowly on the Kung Pao shrimp because I have already consumed with great zest my fried oysters. I remember being a loyal fan of fried oysters during my younger years at the fine restaurants along the Texas Gulf Coast.
I am looking forward to having fried oysters again, but the ones before are somewhat different from those I remember. They are fried with corn meal. I have never heard of oysters fried in corn meal, but they are actually quite good and I eat them with eagerness as I dip them in the tartar sauce.
Hours are 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday through Sunday.